Congratulations
on your new
Seven Streams
kitten!
Below is the
basic
information you
will need to
prepare your
home for your
new family
member!!
Food and water:
The ideal diet
for a cat is
grain-free and
raw. When
I first began
our cattery,
my intention
after much
research was to
feed a 100% raw
diet, at which
time I became a full
time food
preparer and
dish washer,
seriously.
So I modified my
program, still
including the
raw, but also
using both
canned and
kibble.
Raw is the most
desirable and
perfect diet for
the cat.
Next is canned,
and last in line is
kibble.
If you're going
to use canned
and/or kibble,
be sure that the
ingredients are
cat-friendly,
without meat
by-products,
grains, and
other fillers
and
preservatives.
The raw food
diet is not
difficult if you
have only a few cats.
Once you get
into several
cats and kittens
that eat like pirranhas, is
when it gets a
bit
overwhelming.
If you want to
follow the raw
food diet, there
is a lot of
great info on
the net, just do
a google search.
I have a page
with more info on it
too, here:
For canned
food, I recommend
Canidae
Grain-Free Pure.
It comes in
several flavors.
My cats all
enjoy this and
thrive on it.
Wellness Grain
Free is also a
good brand, but
I don't think
you get as much
for your money,
it's quite
watery and
usually more
expensive.
You can find
both of these
foods on Amazon.
It's nice to
have it
delivered to
your door as
well. Love
Amazon!
Most Pet stores
including Petco
and Petsmart
carry these
brands.
Usually they
don't carry the
larger cans
though, so if
you want to save
$, online
shopping is the
way to go!
There are other
good canned
foods out there
but I use the
Canidae because
it has quality
ingredients and
is reasonable
priced.
For kibble (dry
food), I
recommend Solid
Gold Grain Free,
Wellness Grain
Free, Blue
Buffalo Grain
Free, or Blue
Wilderness Grain
Free. My
cats like all of
these brands,
and they seem to
be
interchangeable,
that is they
don't get an
upset stomach if
I switch from
one to another.
This is nice,
seeing as if I
can't get one
brand, I can opt
for another
without worry.
Generally, it is
a good idea to
change foods
gradually,
mixing in a
small quantity
of the new food
with the old,
then increasing
the ratio over
the course of
several days
until they are
on the new food.
If there is a
stomach upset or
diarrhea, then
cut back on the
new food until
their system
adjusts. With
cheaper foods
this is often an
issue, but with
the brands
mentioned above,
I've never had a
problem.
I feed the
kittens up to 5X
a day until they
are about 6 weeks
old, when I
begin feeding 3X.
By the time they
are ready to go
home, 2 to 3
times a day
should be
sufficient.
They will let
you know how
much is enough.
If they leave
food on the
plate with 3
meals, you can
probably cut
back to 2 meals
a day. I
also leave
kibble out for
free feeding.
Usually they
have no interest
in the kibble
until they are
quite a bit
older, and
normally I have
to really coax
them to believe
me when I tell
them the kibble
"really is
food!"
My current
litter haven't
even
acknowledged the
dry food yet,
and there it
sits.
Fresh, clean
water should be
available at all
times for your
cat. Pet
fountains are a
real treat, cats
love the running
water and it
adds interest to
their lives.
I use large
rabbit bottles,
for the sake of
cleanliness.
When you use
bowls, they tend
to get dirty
quickly because
they love to
play in them,
and dip their
paws in them.
Gandalf, one of
my first boys,
used to dip his
paw into the
water in the
morning to wash
his face.
A lovely habit
but it doesn't
make for clean
drinking water,
haha.
Dealing
with Litter(Ugg)
My search for
the perfect
litter was long
and tedious.
:) I
finally found
one I liked and
that worked well
and was all
natural,
appropriately
named "The
World's Best".
I was happy with
it, until I
noticed the big
drain on my bank
account.
So I came up
with a better
plan. I
buy the same
thing (crumbled
corn) at Feed
and Ranch Supply
stores, used to
feed chickens.
I like Purina
Layena Crumbles
the best.
Be sure you get
the crumbled
corn and not the
cracked which
won't work at
all, if you
decide to get
yours there.
I buy it by the
40 to 50 lb bag,
for about $12.
to $16., as
opposed to 21
lbs for around
$30. as sold at
pet stores.
If you only have
1 or 2 kittens
or cats, the
small bag might
be doable for
you, but when
you have more,
the savings can
really add up by
buying the
bigger bags.
I don't advocate
using clay
litters.
Clay is
indigestible and
if ingested can
cause serious
health issues.
Corn on the
other hand, if
accidentally
ingested will
not hurt them
unduly, at least
it didn't used
to until
Monsanto seized
control of our
food supply.
However, I have
never, in all my
long experience
with the
cattery, EVER
seen a cat or
kitten take even
a nibble at the
corn litter.
Which just goes
to show you how
cats themselves
feel about all
the companies
that use "corn"
as an ingredient
in cat food.
If cats could
only speak.
I also recommend
using a larger
than normal
litter box,
with high sides.
This provides a
sense of privacy
for the modest
cat, and also
helps protect
litter from
flying all over
the place when
they "bury"
their waste.
I don't know if
all cats are as
enthusiastic in
their burial
practices as the
Wegies, but some
of mine are very
serious about
this ritual.
For my older and
larger cats, I
buy big plastic
storage totes at
Wal Mart.
They have no
problem jumping
into these, and
this really
keeps the litter
in the box
instead of on
the floor.
For more than
one cat, I
suggest another
litter box or 2.
Placing one in
each bathroom
is a good idea.
This is very
convenient for
you as well.
Another feature
that I love
about the corn
litter is that
it's scoopable!!
Yes you can
scoop right into
the toilet and
flush.
This really
encourages
keeping a
perfectly clean
box at all
times.
Clay, on the
other hand,
cannot be
flushed, which
just tells you
what it would do
to their
intestines if
ingested.
"Why would they
ingest it?" you
might ask.
Good question.
With clay, it
can easily get
stuck on their
paws, esp. if
they have been
playing again in
the water dish.
Clay stuck to
their paws will
be licked off
and swallowed.
They tend to be
meticulously
clean creatures
and love daily
bathing
themselves.
I had one queen
whose primary
purpose in life
was to groom and
care for
herself, haha.
She would be one
that would have
gotten every
particle of clay
off of her paws,
had I been using
clay litter.
You should
change the
litter boxes
regularly.
I'm not going to
tell you how
often, but as
long as the box
looks fresh and
clean, that's
good enough for
me. If
there's any
wilting or
freshness gone,
that's the time
for a change.
You'll get the
hang of it.
I know
people highly
recommend using
bleach for the
disinfectant,
but my
conscience won't
allow me to use
it. I
consider bleach
to be a very
dangerous
poison, and
won't have it in
my house.
Instead, I wash
litter boxes out
with soap,
borax, and water
thoroughly, then
spray with
straight Apple
Cider Vinegar.
Let that stand
for 10 minutes,
rinse, and then
spray with an
H202 solution,
letting that
stand for
another 10 to 15
minutes.
Rinse, then
spray with
"Nature's
Miracle" as the
finishing touch.
Leave that on.
If it's a sunny
day, I also
leave the boxes
out in the sun
to complete the
process.
Apple Cider
Vinegar and H202
I use for all my
household
cleaning needs.
These are both
safe and very
effective.
I can't find the
article that I
just loved that
gave great
details on
these, but it
said that used
in conjunction
with each other
they kill just
about every
known germ,
bacteria, and
virus. You
can't mix them
together though,
they form
another compound
if you do.
You must use
them one at a
time separately.
I have bottles
of these in my
house everywhere
and use them for
keeping things
really clean.
Do a google
search and you
will see all the
benefits you get
from these 2
amazing products.
Vaccinations and
Deworming:
I used to give
two sets of
vaccinations
before sending
my kittens to
their new homes.
However, after a
lot of research,
and from seeing
the effect of
the vaccinations
on my kittens at
8 weeks, I now
wait til they
are 10 or 11
weeks, before
giving first
shots. I
firmly believe
this is in the
best interest of
the kittens
long-term
health. I
recommend 2nd
shots from 4 to
6 weeks later,
which you can
give your kitten
after he/she
arrives home.
I do not
recommend a
third set of
shots. I
give what are
called the
Feline Distemper
3 way shots
which includes
Feline
Panleukopenia,
Feline Viral
Rhinotracheieitis,
and Feline
Calicivirus.
I believe any
more than these
3 vaccinations
are overload and
unnecessary.
If you feel
differently,
then please give
them one at a
time with a
space of time
between shots,
for the kittens
well-being.
The Feline
Leukemia
vaccination will
be unnecessary
for your kitten,
unless the
kitten were to
be subjected in
your household
to another cat
that has
leukemia.
As a strictly
indoor cat,
chances of
exposure to the
leukemia virus
are almost nil.
Here are a
couple of links
that will give
you some really
good information
about
vaccinations and
over-vaccinating:
The rabies
vaccination is
required by most
states also, and
is either given
here as required
by age, or can
be given by you
when the kitten
arrives home.
I recommend
waiting until it
is mandatory
before giving
it.
Deworming:
Rather than give
harmful
dewormers to my
cats and
kittens, I give
them a small
dose of Olive
Leaf Extract
several times a
week, stirred
into their food.
They don't mind
the taste and if
they do at first
they soon learn
to love it, haha.
You can learn
about this
wonderful
product here,
this is where I
purchase mine (I
get the powder):
I also use Black
Walnut and
Wormwood
tincture once or
twice a month,
which you can
get on Amazon or
any health food
store. I
also stir this
into their food.
Diatamaceous
Earth is also
recommended by
many. I
give this
occasionally as
well.
The use of
these products
do a great job
keeping my cats
and kittens free
from parasites,
bacteria, and
viruses.
If more help is
needed,
Goldenseal
Extract has
never failed me.
The trick is to
incorporate
these into their
regular diet, so
no bad dudes
have a chance to
multiply in the
gut.
Better
prevention than
after the fact.
Spaying
and Neutering
I recommend
waiting as long
as possible
before having
your kitten
altered, say 6
or 7 months for
a female, and 7
or 8 months for
a male. If
you see any
signs of sexual
maturity earlier
than that then
go ahead and
have them fixed.
Personally I
believe that
having them
fixed at a later
age helps in
their overall
development,
even affecting
their immune
systems and bone
health. It
will also make
them stronger to
undergo the
stress of the
surgery when you
do take them in
to be altered.
Pick a time when
the kitten is
without issues
and
well-adjusted in
your home.
For example,
just after
arriving in your
home would not
be a great time
to take them in
for surgery.
Let them become
settled in your
home first.
Outdoor
Activities
Your Seven
Streams kitten
will be an
indoor cat, but
I highly
recommend making
some type of
outdoor
accomodations so
they can spend
time regularly
outdoors in
order to get
plenty of fresh
air and
sunshine.
The added
stimulation of
the sights,
sounds, and
smells of the
outdoors will
add a lot of fun
and interest to
their life as
well. You
can leash train
your cat (many
of my clients
have), or you
can build any
type of outdoor
shelter that
would allow them
to play safely
outdoors.
If you have a
proper fence,
(one that can't
be climbed or
jumped, that
works well, too.
I've used XL dog
kennels for
outdoor play
areas that
worked well.
At one point, I
had the kennel
set up right
outside my
living room
window, so the
cats could jump
through the
window right out
into the kennel,
and climb back
in as they
wished.
They really
enjoyed that!
Toys and
Playtime
Kittens LOVE
TOYS!! I
recommend having
a big box full
of toys, and
redistributing
them often to
keep their
interest up.
If they have
their own
stimulating
toys, they are
less likely to
look around at
your furniture,
lamps, etc. with
an gleam in
their eye.
haha They
particularly
like the mice
and other
stuffed animals
that have catnip
tucked inside.
Not all toys
sold at the pet
store are worthy
of the name
however.
Watch for eyes
that can easily
be chewed off,
tails and other
body parts that
come off easily,
and seams that
are poorly sewn
and easily tear
and rip apart.
A favorite at
our house is
milk bottle
caps.
These can
entertain even
my older cats
for hours!
Watch for
strings or yarn
that could be
swallowed and
don't have those
toys in your
house.
The exception
are the "wands"
that have
feathers,
strings, bells,
etc. I
keep our wands
in a container
high on the wall
where they can't
reach them, and
bring them out
for "Play Time"
only. They
really love this
activity and it
becomes extra
special bonding
time with you if
you do it once a
day at a
specific time.
Cats love
routine. I
suggest supper
time in the
evening,
followed by a
rest, and then
around 8 or 9
o'clock, they
tend to go into
high gear.
You can use the
wands at this
time for a
rousing game.
I also have a
jar full of
small liver
treats.
Shake the jar
and they come
running!!
Throw the treats
one at a time
down the hall
and watch them
"chase the
prey!"
This is great
exercise, and
they love it.
This is also a
good time to
bring out the
laser light, one
of their most
favorite
acitivies of
all.
Scratching Posts
and Trees
Cats LOVE to be
up high, and if
you provide them
with their own
tree, you may
not have to
worry about them
climbing up to
places where
you'd rather
they didn't go.
I highly
recommend
getting a tree,
the higher the
better.
This will
benefit everyone
involved, as
cats are
creatures of
habit and once
they take to
their tree, you
will know often
where to find
them. If
you can't afford
a tree, you can
cut down a nice
tree limb, sand
it, attach it to
the wall angling
upwards for them
to climb up, and
place a shelf at
the top where
they can perch.
Before your
kitten arrives
home, you should
have the
scratching posts
and tree in
place, ready for
them to begin
scratching in
the appropriate
place from Day
One. You
want them to
form a good
habit right
away, and once
they have this
habit down they
will stick to
it. This
is not at all
difficult, just
show them the
post and they
will take right
to it.
I like to have
several posts in
the house in
different rooms,
to discourage
scratching on
the furniture.
Cleanliness and
Grooming
Our kittens
rarely need any
grooming,
usually needing
none until they
are 6 to 7
months old, when
they may develop
mats during the
winter months,
depending on the
thickness of
their coats.
Some of my cats
have little or
no matting,
which makes for
very easy
care. Just
brush them out
daily during the
springtime, as
they shed their
winter coats.
Other of my cats
have extremely
thick undercoats
and mat up
overnight.
You have to stay
on top of these
mats before they
climb on your
back and grab
you by the
throat.
haha
I like to keep
their nails
trimmed, which I
do myself and so
can you.
The first time I
did that there
were 2 of us
holding the cat
down and I was
so scared I was
going to mess
up. But
with a little
practice it
becomes second
nature.
Just be sure you
don't clip down
into the red
part. One
thing I do that
helps accustom
them to this
procedure, is
when they are
sitting on my
lap, I play with
their feet,
pushing their
nail in and out
gently.
They get used to
this and it's
become a habit
of mine.
That way when
it's time to
clip nails, it
doesn't bother
them much.
I check ears
periodically
also, to make
sure there is no
debris or wax
build up.
If there is, I
gently wipe it
out with a
cotton swab.
I use dilute
boric acid for
this. You
can also use
olive oil, or
vitamin E oil
Be sure to keep
their eyes and
ears clean or
any debris
also.
Other than the
above, they
groom
themselves, and
each other if
they have a
companion.
Grooming
themselves is a
big part of
their day and
generally they
keep themselves
meticulously
clean.
May you enjoy
many years of
fun and
happiness with
your new
Companion!!